Archive for the ‘*Thailand’ Category

I Get Around

Wednesday, July 25th, 2007

songtaew (red taxi) in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is full of men with pick-up lines. It can be “Do you need a taxi?” or “Where are you going?” or sometimes it’s just a slow down with a little honk. Indeed, they’re all trying to get me in their little red trucks and take me to my next destination.

These trucks are how people travel in Chiang Mai. Songtaews, or red taxis, are the main mode of transportation. It’s a bit different, these vehicles. After flagging down one (if you haven’t already had one offered), you tell the driver your destination. If he’s already going somewhat in that direction, he’ll nod you in to the back of the truck. If not, with a shake of his head, he’ll send you back to the curb to flag down the next guy. Routes obviously vary depending on what places he needs to get to, so you’ll likely not take a direct route. And the price can be negotiated before or after. In the city, they’re rarely packed. But take one to another town, and expect the driver to only leave with a full load o’ passengers…and more will be flagged in along the route. Imagine being in the back of a pick-up with fourteen other riders (and a few bags), and four guys hanging off the back.

Riding in them actually reminds me a bit of my childhood and riding in the back of my dad’s pick-up (I’m from a small town). Sidebenches aside, the main difference, though, is my dad’s truck was a Ford. Oddly, though, none of the red taxis are Ford…or Chevy…or even GMC. They’re mostly Isuzu, but there are also a few Toyotas, Nissans, Mitsubishis, and Mazdas. I’ve seen some Fords and Chevrolets on the street, but none are in use for the taxi men (yeah, I’ve only seen male drivers). I noticed this mainly because American pick-up drivers are some of the few Yanks who usually believe American vehicles are the best-made. As a past American pick-up driver myself (I’m from a small town, remember?), I agreed with that. Obviously, though, the songtaew men, don’t.

Not fully digging the songtaews, I spent the last week riding around a neon green motorbike that I affectionately named BB. I’d been riding on the back of my friends’ bikes here, and after a week of that, I figured I could handle one, too. My friend Mike said, “It’s like riding a bicycle.” After paying my 150-baht-a-day (about $5) rental fee, I hopped on and started it up. Mike was right. It is kind of like a bicycle, but I think it’s a bit closer to a riding lawnmower (it’s that small-town thing, again). Every day when I’d ride BB, I couldn’t help but feel like I’d be cutting the front yard.

But once again, motorbikes in Chiang Mai are also definitely on the Asian side…Yamaha and Honda are the big brands here. BB was a Yamaha. I’ll sure miss him! One of the coolest parts of having BB around was every time a taxi man gave me his pick-up line, I could mime riding a motorbike, and he’d just smile and drive on.

Jayna Rust on motorbike in Chiang Mai motorbike in Chiang Mai

Oh, Behave!

Tuesday, July 24th, 2007

Do and Don't PosterI forgot to post the photo [click it to enlarge] of this sign I took at one of the temples (Wat Phrathat) in Chiang Mai. It’s a Do and Don’t list in Thai and English with some awesome illustrations. I’m wondering how many foreigners (probably a few Americans at some point) didn’t follow the good-manners list and created the need for it.

I have to say I was pretty disappointed when I saw it. I mean I was really hoping to wear my “hot pants” next time I went to a temple.

Bucking out of the Gates

Monday, July 23rd, 2007

Starbucks drink in Chiang MaiIt’s been forbidden in the Forbidden City. OK maybe not forbidden, but Starbucks’ Forbidden City (in Beijing) location is closed as of last week. According to BusinessWeek Online’s story, one CCTV anchor “ignited a firestorm after taking up the issue on his popular blog last year. ‘Starbucks has good quality stuff, but it is still a symbol of America’s low-class food culture,’ wrote Rui Chenggang on Jan. 12, 2007. ‘It’s maybe O.K. to have a Starbucks around the Forbidden City. But having one inside the City is inappropriate. This is not globalization, but an erosion of Chinese culture.’ ” (the blog is in Chinese, so I’ll have to accept BusinessWeek Online’s translation). Others apparently agreed, and so Starbucks’ American image was shown the door (or maybe the gates; the Forbidden City is a former palace, after all).

As I travel, I’ve begun to feel like Starbucks is the McDonald’s of the 80s and 90s. Like the burger chain wiggled its way into foreign lands in the past decades, Starbucks is doing that now and is just as much a symbol of Americans’ consumerism as the golden arches. But if the closure in the Forbidden City is any indication, our wacky fast-food (and beverage) habits aren’t welcome everywhere.

Oddly, though, the big green circle has been in pretty much every city I’ve visited, and I have to say I’m a bit perplexed by it. Paying nearly $5 for a caffeine buzz is ridiculous to even some Americans…but in countries where a meal and drink in a mid-class sit-down restaurant can be less than $3 and the daily wages are about $25, the proliferation of Starbucks abroad is quite startling. Sure they’re there often for the tourists, but I can’t help but wonder what the Thai guy (who probably makes less than the $25/day average) thinks as he’s whipping up a $4.77 drink for the farang tourists.

If he’s like the quoted anchor who called Starbucks part of “America’s low-class food culture,” he probably thinks its hogwash that anyone would spend that much on a cup of Joe that’s not even served at a fine-dining establishment. Yet, that’s what Americans (and plenty of others) do.

Needing a quiet place to do some work Saturday, I did it too. But for a gal who doesn’t drink caffeine, that $4.77 chocolate chip cream drink after lunch was pretty much the devil. It kept me up until 6:20 the next morning. I might have to show Starbucks the gate for a while, too.

When Harry met Scholastic

Sunday, July 22nd, 2007

Harry Potter display

I’ll admit upfront that I’ve never gotten into the Harry Potter hype. I read the first one just to see what all the excitement was about. Haven’t read one since. But, I know there are many, many people out there who are dedicated JK Rowling readers. I understand that the release of the final book was also a big deal…I’d been hearing about it for months and months. And in the last few days I’d been reading the articles about the growing international excitement (and “spoilers”).

So I wondered what the release time in Thailand (6:01 a.m.) would be like. I’d heard about a few parties in Bangkok, and I’d read that one of the bookstores here in Chiang Mai would open at 6 a.m. I figured with all the hype I’d heard that the book would be flying off the shelves like one of the series’ magical little things. Imagine my surprise, then, when yesterday afternoon I stopped by a bookstore and saw a display outside with copies of both Bloomsbury (the UK publisher) editions.

When I was inside buying some magazines, an English-and-Thai-speaking family came in asking “Do you have the Scholastic edition of Harry Potter?” This question surprised me (and the clerk, too, who offered both Bloomsbury editions from boxes in the store). I didn’t think there was any difference in the editions. And if I’d been a Harry Potter fan, I would’ve just been excited to find any copy that late in the day.

As they carried on their bilingual conversation, I started to think maybe it was because they’d bought the Scholastic (the US publisher) editions of the previous installments and wanted their library to look cohesive (I’m anal, I could understand that). But no; the grandmother then asked, “Is the Scholastic one different?” The clerk shook his head, but still the family must have been unconvinced. They left without the book.

So now I’m curious as to why readers might want the US edition versus one of the British ones. Are there illustrations? An extended ending? A foreword by some person more amazing than Harry? I looked online, and the only difference I’ve found is the page length (608 in the Bloomsbury editions and 784 in the Scholastic one), and that is apparently due only to layout elements like spacing. That leads me to believe that the family’s search might simply be due to the US company’s international marketing (I did notice that the Scholastic Harry Potter cover images have him growing up looking more and more like Harry’s movie image, and the book and movie have the same title font; whereas the Bloomsbury editions look much different from the movie-marketing campaigns).

And so now my curiosity leads me to ask any of you dear readers who are also Harry Potter fans to explain why the US edition might be a better buy or if it’s just that Scholastic has somehow managed to make its name synonomous with the series.

Gratuitious-Jayna-Was-Here Photo #5

Thursday, July 19th, 2007

Jayna Rust at Wat Phrathat outside of Chiang Mai, Thailand

With about 300 steps to the top, Doi Suthep’s Wat Phrathat is apparently the must-do thing in Chiang Mai. Not only is it a big, beautiful Buddhist temple, but it also boasts some of the best views of the city.

Riding up to the base of the steps on a minibus, I got to know a Thai girl who was visiting Chiang Mai for work. Talking with her about where I was staying and how much I’d paid for my room and other things around Chiang Mai, I realized that I am way too paranoid about being taken advantage of or being seen as a moneybags tourist. The prices she was told or was paying was sometimes more or the same as I’d been paying. Then I felt like a poophead and realized I’d probably been seen as a cheapskate or cheating tourist. I’m pretty sure that’s worse.

I think when I go back to Wat Phrathat I should ask one of the monks how they feel about money, profits, and bargaining.

Wat Phrathat at Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai, Thailand

It’s Like I’m Chop…Sticks

Wednesday, July 18th, 2007

Thanks to my friend Nikki, I learned how to use chopsticks in 10th grade. I wouldn’t say I mastered the skill. But I could eat with them when I had to.

That’s what China was…a had to. And after two and a half months of using pretty much only chopsticks, I’m pretty darn comfortable with them; I also realize that there are some dishes that are just EASIER to eat with my two little wooden (or stainless steel) friends.

However, here in Chiang Mai, almost any time I order in English I’m presented my dish with a fork and spoon in tow, and I have to request the chopsticks. It’s kind of weird. Even my Asian-American exterior doesn’t convince the servers to bring me chopsticks…

Hello, Americans!

Wednesday, July 18th, 2007

Blue Diamond The Breakfast Club in Chiang Mai

I’d read about an apparently really good vegetarian restaurant called “Blue Diamond.” Armed with my map, I eventually found the little place, hidden on a small road behind a cacophony of plants. Approaching it and then skimming the menu, I realized why it was called “Blue Diamond”…it was a reference to the oft-used American Automobile Association (AAA) diamond rating system.

Oddly, though, Blue Diamond also seemed to have a second name: The Breakfast Club. Both monikers seemed to be marketing ploys geared to the American travelers, but I think I was the only American eating there. All the other diners were European or Australian. And for some reason, I doubted most of them had ever seen the John Hughes film.

But I of course had. And by the time I finished my delicious pad thai with tofu, I was stuffed. And happy I’d found the place. It almost made me want to put a lipstick in my bra and try to apply it without any hands.

Oh, What a Beautiful Day

Monday, July 16th, 2007

lake in Chiang Mai

In a city like Chiang Mai, it can be pretty difficult to find places that aren’t swarming with tourists. Yesterday, though, I found just that. A new friend took me to a quiet park with a wonderfully clean lake. Buoys made of old milk jugs marked off swimming areas, and along parts of the shore, little bungalows stood short above the water. Lounging on beach blankets and hammocks, we chatted and listened to music and hopped up every once and a while to take a swim.

Although the clouds moved in, threatening a monsoon-season shower, they only made the sunset that much more colorful.

Gorgeous day all in all. Made me realize just how lucky I am to be able to travel like this. Even if I do have a cold.
sunset at lake in Chiang Mai

Thought I’d Thai McDonald’s Here

Sunday, July 15th, 2007

McDonald's meal in Chiang Mai

Since arriving in Chiang Mai, I’ve been an uber healthy and conscious eater. It’s not too hard. In fact, I’d say Chiang Mai presents itself as even more earth and body conscious than Los Angeles’ South Bay. So many meals here have been at vegetarian restaurants. Most tout themselves as “organic”. I even have been more thoughtful as to the ingredients in the meals, trying to make sure that what I’m choosing would be grown here and not shipped from overseas.

Then, I go and have my McDonald’s. Um, I don’t think any Mackers has ever lauded its food as vegetarian, organic, or locally grown. The worst part is, I don’t feel at all guilty for today’s dinner. It had been a month (when I had the bulgogi burger in Seoul) since I’d sunk my teeth into any meat…and traveling, I feel pretty confident that McDonald’s is one of the safest (in terms of not getting food-borne illnesses) places I can get my protein fixes.

I definitely needed protein today, too. For the last three days I’ve been ingesting as much zinc and vitamin C as I can, trying to fight off a cold or flu. My other “natural” trick to kick oncoming illnesses is protein, so that’s why I had to have dinner with Ronnie today. And that’s why I spent the big baht and got the double cheeseburger meal.

I don’t know if it was my body craving protein, but I have to say that this was my best McDonald’s meal yet. The burger was good, and the fries had a golden crispiness that I hadn’t had in quite some time. The topper, though, was the BBQ sauce. It was a cross between American BBQ sauce and chili sauce…nice and sweet with a bit of tang and spice. (I dip my fries in BBQ sauce…) Cost? It was 109 baht plus 3 baht for the BBQ sauce. But the regular cheeseburger meal would have only been 85 baht, about $2.79, and the fries and soda were American-sized, too.

While there, I noticed that one of the “local” menu additions was something called a Samurai Porkburger. I honestly love how McDonald’s adapts itself to whatever locale it’s in. Even Ronnie greeted me with a polite little Thai bow. It may not make the meal “locally grown,” but well, I’ll have that tomorrow.
Ronald McDonald in Chiang Mai

I Found It!

Friday, July 13th, 2007

The heat and humidity of Chiang Mai is heavy. But not as bad as I thought it would be. Still, I thought a good mid-day escape would be sitting in an air-conditioned theater. Unfortunately, the afternoon’s movie choices were only Harry Potter (not sure which one, the posters are in Thai) and Die Hard 4.0. Neither seeming too appealing, I just wandered around the mall instead and was stunned to find one of my favorite pastimes. I didn’t have any change with me, but I’m sure I’ll be back to play the Thai version of Photo Hunt (and if you’ve never played before, it’s basically like the find-the-difference game from Highlights). So much fun. Everyone should play at least once.

Photo Game in Chiang Mai